Atelier Havier Vintage Tsumug and Kasuri Handkerchief
This is the first handkerchief in the new Atelier Havier collection featuring vintage kimono Tsumug (raw spun silk) and Kasuri cotton. Sewn using the same technique as the Signature handkerchiefs using premium threads and embroidered with a distinct first edition makers mark.
Kasuri (絣) is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an Ikat (resist-dyeing) technique. The patterns are characterized by a blurred or brushed appearance. The warp and weft threads are resist-dyed in specific patterns. Prior to dyeing, sections of the warp and weft yarns are tightly wrapped with thread to protect them from the dye. When woven together, the undyed areas interlace to form patterns . Many variations are possible. Kasuri patterns may be applied to the warp or to the weft; or to both the warp and the weft. There are many techniques used to create kasuri. The cloth is classified with different names depending on the method used.
Yūki-tsumugi (結城紬) Developing from earlier silk techniques, the name Yūki-tsumugi was adopted in 1602. Weavers were invited from Ueda and the cloth, at first plain, was used as gifts for the shogun. Currently approximately one hundred and thirty craftsmen transmit the technique in Yūki and Oyama.
Silk floss is extracted from silkworm cocoons and spun by hand into yarn. Patterns are added by tie-dyeing, before weaving with a loom known as a jibata (地機). The strap around the weaver's waist enables the tension of the vertical thread to be adjusted. It can take up to fifteen days to weave enough plain fabric for an adult garment, and up to forty-five days for patterned fabric.